Mistover – Preparing for a Dungeon (Gearing Up and Exploring Efficiently)

More Mistover Guides:

Weapons and Armor

All credit goes to Axanael!

As far as I know, there are 4 attributes that distinguish different Weapons and Armor for a specific class. Three applies to ALL Weapons and armor, which I will refer to these as Rarity, Level/Area, and A/B Tier. Certain Weapons and Armor have two variants, which are referred to as I and II in game, and these will always be B Tier items.

Rarity is the most self-explanatory attribute. As far as I have experienced, there are 3 Rarities a Weapon/Armor can appear in, Purple, Blue, and White. A piece of gear with the exact same name can appear in all three rarities, and generally the higher the rarity, the higher the base stats and number of bonus stats. White will have 2 stats, which is shared among all rarities. A Blue can obtain one more bonus stat while a Purple can obtain 2. This can be done in the Alchemy Lab.

This may not be true for all weapons, but I have a suspicion that, at least for identical weapons, a 1 higher rarity will always grant you a total of +3 in the secondary stats (HIT/CRT for weapons, EVA/GRD for armor).

Rarity also indicates how many times a piece of equipment can be enhanced. The higher the rarity the more enhancements you can make. Again, visit the Alchemy Lab.

Level indicates what minimum level a character must be to put on a piece of gear. This also corresponds with a specific prefix as each piece of gear from each specific zone has the same level requirement, generally the lowest enemy level possible for that zone. For example, all “Forest” gear will have a level requirement of 1 and drop from the Misty Forest area. The higher the level zone is, the higher the base stats of that piece of gear will be. For example, a White Scout Armor for the Ronin. The White Forest Scout Armor will always have a level requirement of 1 and a lower stat value than a White Divine Forest Scout Armor, with a level requirement of 5 dropping from Cathedral Ruins. I’ll write a list of the prefixes below:

  • Forest – Level 1 – Misty Forest
  • Divine – Level 5 – Cathedral Ruins
  • Civic – Level 9 – Cursed Town
  • Mtn. / Mount – Level 13 – Frozen Mountains

A and B:

Finally, for each slot, there are two options, which I will refer to as A and B. All other things equal, an A weapon will be strictly superior than a B weapon, and the same applies to armor. While an A tier item will always be the superior option, the two B type variants are not identical.

For example, the Sister has three options (ignoring Level) for Armor:

  • A Tier: Fanatic Habit
  • B Tier: Fallen Habit I/II

The Fanatic Habit will have higher HP, EVD, and GRD than either Fallen Habit, given their rarities are equal.

Fallen Habit I has a heavier Focus on EVD at the cost of GRD, while the Fallen Habit II has a more balanced distribution (Less EVD and more GRD than the Fallen Habit I).

Generalized, this means:

B Tier Weapons: I variants have a heavier focus on HIT and relatively low CRT, whereas II variants have higher CRT but lower HIT.

B Tier Armor: I variants have a heavier focus on EVD and relatively low GRD, whereas II variants have higher GRD but lower EVD versus I variants.

Selecting Gear

You may be asking, that’s great and all, but HOW do I choose the “best” weapon and armor for my party members?

Here’s how all this nonsense generally works out:

Level is the MOST important determinant. A higher level piece of gear will always have a higher stat total than a lower one. For example:

A Level 5 White Rarity B Tier Weapon will be roughly on par with a Level 1 Purple Rarity Tier A weapon. The Purple Rarity Tier A may have higher secondary stat values, but the main stat (Damage/HP) will be almost identical. Therefore, the only gear you can realistically transition when you advance a zone are only Tier A Purple gear. A practical example may be:

I just received a White Rarity Civic Iron Skin I for my Werewolf, and I just came from the Cathedral Ruins with Divine gear. If my Werewolf is wearing anything EXCEPT a Purple Rarity Divine Steel Skin, I should be replacing it with the White Rarity Civic Iron Skin I.

Everything else is relatively straight-forward other than items of differing levels. Higher Rarity = Better, Higher Tier = Better. A tier > Either B tier.

In my opinion, I variants are superior to II variants when choosing between B weapons, as missing an attack is potentially lethal to your party. Unless you can consistently achieve 90% HIT accuracy against most targets in your dungeon crawls (iirc accuracy is capped at 90%) with a II variant weapon, use I variants for better consistency. In terms of Armor, choose whichever variant contributes more to whichever stat, EVD or GRD, your character already has more of. Unlike attacking, where your CRT will never matter if you can’t hit your target, EVD and GRD are separate, but exclusive. Better you focus on getting at least one form of damage mitigation consistently at the cost of the other than split both equally.

Packing for the Dungeon Efficiently


This is much less crucial with the Gold economy re-balance with patch 1.03c.

When you are above 75% Food, your Party Members will regenerate HP per step taken. What this means is, if you are full HP, being at 10% Food is the same as being at 100% Food.

Because this regeneration is “free” to be fully efficient you want to be starving your party, then filling the Food Bar back to 100 or close to in one go to make full use of the food meter. This can be extended by strategically taking battles so you can recover HP with a Sister or other healing skills to prolong starving your team.

By doing so, you can squeeze out roughly 20-25% more distance with the same amount of food (before considering any Combat healing), as staggering starvation is much safer and efficient than dealing with it all at once when you keep your party from starving ever. Think about it like this, is it more dangerous to fight 2-3 battles starting at 80-70% HP, or 1 battle starting at 25%?


Technically, you don’t NEED light to travel dungeons. However, the most dangerous issue of low light is your formation being changed by battles with enemy initiative. The “most efficient” light level in my experience is when you can see 2 squares ahead, and with most enemy re-spawns lengthened significantly, you can risk re-treading an area you’ve already cleared in the pitch dark, and/or use a Ronin’s dungeon skill to dash through an area with your map.

If you are given the choice, you always would rather be in the dark without light than be starving without food. With the change that aggressive mobs will not immediately give chase after you run away from combat, running is a much safer and viable strategy in emergency situations. In other words, if you need to cut corners, cut here first if your primary objective is to make sure everyone gets out at all cost.


If you can afford them, these are the only ways you can recover HP and from bleed consistently while not in combat, other than walking it off, which can potentially be lethal. Nice to have but technically not mandatory.

Purified Water:

Generally not worth a turn in combat to use, and you should be bringing an Onmiyouji to dungeons where those statuses are an actual hindrance. Outside of combat you can always just wait in place or walk it off.

Power Drink/Holy Water:

Not enough impact to spend a turn in combat to apply in my opinion, your mileage may vary.

In other words, your gold priority should be:

  • Food > Minimal Light > Bandages/Potions > More Light > Purified Water/Power Drink/Holy Water
Volodymyr Azimoff
About Volodymyr Azimoff 13981 Articles
I love games and I live games. Video games are my passion, my hobby and my job. My experience with games started back in 1994 with the Metal Mutant game on ZX Spectrum computer. And since then, I’ve been playing on anything from consoles, to mobile devices. My first official job in the game industry started back in 2005, and I'm still doing what I love to do.

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