Brewmaster: Beer Brewing Simulator – Useful Tips

A collection of tips learned that might be helpful to you.

Gameplay Tips

  1. Don’t forget to clean all your stuff before you use it. Stuff you do not need to clean are things like tubing, your cooling coils, and your pumps.
  2. When you unlock the immersion coils and counterflow coolers, USE THEM.
  3. The above items can be used with electric kettles to double as immersion/counterflow heaters to help you maintain that mash temp.
  4. Mash temperature. If you follow the recipes exactly, you’ll often end up with too much liquid and a mash that’s too hot. I have tried adding boiling water until the mash hits 65C, but this often results in not enough thermal mass to maintain the temperature without constantly adding more water. Conversely, if you do exactly as it says, you will often find yourself with not enough capacity once you do the mash out. The solution here is to either upsize your mash tun where possible, or when you can, see #3.
  5. When it asks for 50g of coriander, that’s equivalent to 50ml of coriander.
  6. Pumps are extraordinarily useful for moving liquids from one container to the next. They do not, however, speed up the water out of the faucet (unless I’m retarded and hooked it up wrong).
  7. You have a lot of time and unlimited ingredient quantities. Use it. Experiment.
  8. When buying stuff, it is important to make sure you pick up ingredients before gear, or else you’ll be a little screwed.
  9. The brew pots you unlock later on have spigots on them that allow you to use tubing to move the liquid around. They are much better for reducing contamination.
  10. When using conditioning containers, do not forget to put the lid back on unless you like flat beer.
  11. Oak barrels are nice, but don’t forget they impart flavor to the beer. If you are attempting to brew something with specific flavors, keep this in mind.
  12. Plastic is not necessarily a bad thing.
  13. If you happen to add a little more or less, don’t panic. It’ll be fine.
  14. If stuff overflows, also don’t panic. It’ll be fine.
Written by BoredZero


  1. Ok so I’m a little new to this considering I didn’t do chem in school. At which point is it ok to add extracts like the mango extract or the orange flavored extracts to your concoction.

    • To be perfectly honest, I have absolutely no idea. I’d imagine you can add ’em during conditioning.

  2. a. Your first point is on cleaning your stuff. I do this by just putting it back into the cabinet, where it is auto-cleaned. Is this what you mean?
    b. I see there are propane burners, that must heat faster than the countertop hob. Can you use these indoors? (I always used these outdoors, hence my question.)

    • You can do that, or you can press and hold E over the sink. Most of the contamination comes from uncovered containers, not not dumping and cleaning out your mash-tun after it’s been used. As for the propane burners, author just kinda put ’em on the table. Don’t think indoor fires are a mechanic.

  3. Something I’ve found useful for mashing – you can’t add grains directly to an electric kettle, but if you mix your grains in a steel pot, you can then transfer them into an electric kettle for a consistent mash temperature with no effort. Don’t know how this affects contamination though as I haven’t tested it fully

  4. For mashing in the plastic tub, this is what I do:
    1. Recipe says to heat 21 l of water to a given temp. Then add 10 l to the grain, to reach an equilibrium temp (typ. 65C)
    2. Then let it sit for an hour, topping off with hot water as needed.
    3. The temp drops rapidly, especially when using the rectangular cooler. So either mashing is too cold, or one adds too much water for mash out; “Add 11 l of boiling water…”
    4. So, after putting in the mash 10 l, I start heating the remaining 11 l. When the mash temp. drops below 63C, I add 1 l of the 11 l of remaining water. Using the orange cooler, I only have to do this twice. I also aim for about 1C higher than 65C, which doesn’t seem to add contamination.
    5. By the end of mashing hour, you add remaining, now-boiling water (7-9 l) to your mash tun. This way, you get a good mash out that does not involve too much water or too much time spent below the required mash temp.

  5. It seems that the hidden required mashing temperature for all grains is the same at this game version– 65C ± 3C. So just pouring 80-90C water at the begin of the mashing process and get 67.8C or so, fast-forwarding the time and add additional water when it reaches 62.xx or so is perfectly fine. Repeat it 3 -4 times, even with the smallest mashing pot you can get below 0.0015% contamination after mashing out and hops in.

  6. I found you pour in the 10L of 84 temp water to maintain the temp of 65 and if you need to top it off do so by adding .5L of boiling water not 84C water

    • During some experimenting last night with one particular job, I’ve found that the quantity and temp varies depending on batch size and grain amount, so that might not be the same every time.

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