TT Isle Of Man: Ride on the Edge 3 – Better Controller Settings

Hey, if you’ve found this guide, you’re probably feeling like your bike feels too soft and heavy at the same time. In slow corners you fall off the bike because you set the angle too steep and in fast load changes, it just takes too long to get the rider from one side to the other. With this guide I want to help you not only to change that, but also to understand it.

How to Get in Full Control of Your Bike

The Standard Settings Explained

  • Sensitivity = -5
  • Dead zone = 10

If you go to Game Settings -> Controls -> Custom Set Up you can adjust your trigger and stick inputs and of course look at them.

Sensitivity explained

When the Sensitivity is negative, it means that the smallest input is much smaller and therefore you are a bit more precise when you only give little throttle, or little steering. In return, the maximum input value is reached more quickly.

If we take the throttle as an example, it means that you can accelerate out of slow corners more easily, but if you want to control your speed in fast corners, it is much more difficult, because at first nothing happens and then the input is suddenly reduced. Which usually ends in you getting off the throttle too late and understeering, getting off the throttle too much and going too slow, or the bike just throwing you off because it has no momentum left.

Dead zones explained

A dead zone first defines when anything happens at all. This can help you to either set up an old controller so that worn-out buttons don’t put you at a disadvantage, or so that not every input immediately creates a change in the bike.

A dead zone of 10 in the left stick also means that 10% of the total area of the stick around the center does absolutely nothing. While this results in you not lurching wildly from left to right across the track, it also results in you feeling like your bike weighs over 1 ton.

Control gauge

To enter the control gauge press A or X once. Then you have 5 seconds to test your changes. Just play around with both values. You can reset the settings at any time by pressing Y or triangle.

How Do I Get More Control Over My Bike?

Here are my settings:

Throttle/ Frontbrake

  • Sensitivity = 0
  • Dead zone = 1
  • Saturation = 100

Steer Left/ Right

  • Sensitivity = 0
  • Dead zone = 5
  • Saturation = 100
  • Rear Brake = A/Cross
  • Tuck In = Y/Triangle
  • Shift up = B/Circle
  • Shift down = X/square
  • Respawn = press right stick
  • Rear Camera = right stick back

These settings allow me to use all the important functions with my right thumb in a way that makes sense together, and to corner the bike very precisely without taking forever to get the bike flipped when changing loads.

If you take over that can cost you between 1h to 5h until that you have learned, simply because you are used to something else.

Key Assignment Tips

Why tuck in on Y/ triangle?

Tuck In very much changes how much your rider is willing to radically put their weight on one side. Also, you can only change the speed from the bike by a few percent in corners over 200km/h when you change from Tuck In to a normal position.

Now, if tuck in is on the left stick, you lack the ability to push the stick forward and only then put the bike into the turn WITHOUT being tucked in. This means you have to bring the stick back to the center position and steer with a lot of feeling. In short, this is very error prone. If you push the stick forward and then push it to the right or left at the physical limit, you can make very precise small changes. The difference to the tucked-in position is huge. Just try it out. You’ll be able to do a lot more turns flat out from now on.

A second important point is speed control in fast turns. Especially when you are at the limit, a momentum change in your center of gravity due to low brake application, can not only lift you off the bike, but will often cost you more than just the desired 5 to 10km/h that you wanted to lose. Now when you’re cornering, if you bring the left stick anywhere near the center position so you’re not tucked in, you’ll end up in a mess of inputs. While letting go of the Y key will do exactly what you want. You are no longer tucked in, but hold your line precisely.

Tuck In and Up Shift

At the turn exit, my right thumb is on Y/Triangle with the fingertip and my knuckle is over B/Circle. This allows me to hold down Tuck In and up shift with my knuckle. Sounds much more complicated than it is. Just go into free ride mode and practice that for 10 minutes. After that you’ll have it down.

Rear Brake and Down Shift

When braking, on the other hand, my thumb is over X/circle and my knuckle is pushing the rear brake. Again, this is a little difficult at first, but once you get used to it, you have all the important buttons put together in a way that gives your brain enough resources to get used to cornering.

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